San Sebastián: pintxos on La Concha bay

Overlooking one of Europe's most photographed urban bays, San Sebastián concentrates a density of Michelin stars per capita among the world's highest.

The center can be comfortably explored on foot along the bay.

In the bars of the Old Town, pintxos are eaten standing at the bar, moving from one establishment to another to taste one or two at a time.

Heading toward the sea you walk along Concha Beach, the shell-shaped beach that gave the city its nickname, often mentioned among Europe's best urban beaches.

At the western end of the bay, Comb of the Wind, an Eduardo Chillida steel sculpture set in rock since 1977, channels waves into violent spray when the sea is rough.

Toward evening, the funicular of Mount Igueldo, in operation since 1912, climbs to a small vintage amusement park with views over the entire bay.

When the sea is rough, the water crashing against the sculptures of the Peine del Viento can rise several meters, transforming the promenade into an unpredictable spectacle.

The round of pintxos has no fixed menu: one chooses by sight from the counter, pays at evening's end by counting the toothpicks remaining on the plate, according to a system based on trust.