24 hours in Naples: what to see

The Duomo of San Gennaro is reached comfortably in the morning: the cathedral houses the vials with the blood of the saint-patron, which according to tradition liquefies on specific dates of the year, still followed by thousands of faithful.

From here you travel Spaccanapoli, the straight street that cuts the center in two, retracing one of the ancient Neapolis Greek decumani, between crèche shops, Baroque churches and noble palaces.

Along the route stands the Cappella Sansevero, which houses the Cristo Velato, the marble sculpture that manages to render the veil covering the body nearly transparent, among Baroque sculpture's most surprising works.

For lunch, a true Neapolitan pizza, perhaps a margherita or marinara, in one of the historic pizzerias of the center remains almost obligatory.

The Caracciolo Waterfront is the walk skirting the gulf with Vesuvius and Capri visible on the horizon in clear days, passing by the Ovo Castle, the fortress on an islet connected to the mainland.

In height, the Vomero is the hilltop neighborhood reachable by funicular, where Sant'Elmo Castle offers a view from above over the entire gulf and the roofs of the historic center.

The Spanish Quarters, the net of tight alleys between street life and votive altars, remain the most authentic spot to dine, among fryers and traditional trattorias.

The Duomo, Spaccanapoli, and the Sansevero Chapel help understand Naples' historical layering, while the afternoon choice between Lungomare Caracciolo and Vomero adds its maritime or panoramic side.

The excavations of Pompeii and Herculaneum, reachable in a day trip, and underground Naples with its Greco-Roman quarries remain chapters for a second visit. Seeing Vesuvius outline itself beyond the gulf, viewed from the waterfront, remains Naples' most memorable detail.