Edinburgh in a day: what to see

Edinburgh Castle commands early hours: perched on a volcanic crag visible from every angle of the city, it houses the Crown Jewels of Scotland and the Stone of Destiny, the stone upon which Scottish sovereigns were crowned.

From the castle you descend along the Royal Mile, the succession of four medieval streets connecting the fortress to the palace, flanked by closes, the narrow lateral alleys hiding courtyards and stairwells.

Along the course stands the Cathedral of St Giles, recognizable by its crown-shaped spire, historically linked to the Scottish Reformation led by John Knox.

For lunch, the historic pubs along the Royal Mile offer traditional dishes like haggis, accompanied by Scottish beer.

The Palace of Holyroodhouse is the official residence of the British royal family in Scotland, at the end of the Royal Mile, with the ruins of the adjacent abbey.

Right next, Arthur's Seat is the extinct volcano dominating the city from Holyrood Park: the ascent, steep but short, rewards with a view spanning from the Firth of Forth to the surrounding hills.

The Old Town quarter, with its cobbled alleys and live music venues, invites stopping for dinner before leaving the center.

Edinburgh Castle, the Royal Mile, and St Giles' Cathedral help understand Edinburgh's historic soul, while the afternoon choice between Holyroodhouse and Arthur's Seat adds the royal or naturalistic side.

The Georgian New Town, with its wide and regular streets, and a trip to nearby coastal villages remain chapters for a second trip. Seeing the castle rise on its crag at sunset, viewed from Princes Street, best encapsulates Edinburgh more than anything else.