24 hours in Cologne: what to see

Cologne is recognized from a distance by the twin spires of its Cathedral, the most-visited Gothic cathedral in Germany, which soars over the left bank of the Rhine next to the central station.

A city of Roman origin, later a capital of Hanseatic trade and today home to Kölsch and the perfume that gives it the name in several languages, Cologne offers a compact center easily visited in a single day.

The Cologne Cathedral is the natural starting point: its spires exceed one hundred fifty metres, and the interior holds the Shrine of the Three Kings, western Europe's largest medieval reliquary. Those climbing the 533 steps of the south tower are rewarded by an open view over the Rhine and the old town's roofs.

Nearby, the Museum Ludwig holds one of Germany's most important 20th-century art collections, with a nucleus of Picasso works among the most extensive outside Spain.

Descending toward the river you reach the Hohenzollernbrücke, the railway bridge covered by tens of thousands of love locks, from which you enjoy a classic view of the Cathedral's façade.

For lunch, the Altstadt, the old town rebuilt after the war, offers typical breweries where Kölsch is served in narrow glasses by staff still carrying circular trays between tables.

The Schokoladenmuseum, the chocolate museum overlooking the Rhine, features a fountain of flowing melted chocolate visible along the exhibition route.

On nearby Glockengasse Eau de Cologne was born in 1709, now celebrated in a small perfume museum on the original production site.

With sunset, the walk along the Rhine, between the bridge and the Rheinseilbahn funicular, remains the simplest way to end the day with the Cathedral illuminated behind you.

The Cathedral, the Hohenzollernbrücke, and Altstadt are enough to convey Cologne's character, while the afternoon choice between chocolate and perfume brings with it the more curious and unexpected side.

The alternative neighborhood of Ehrenfeld and a river cruise on the Rhine remain chapters for a longer visit. Seeing the Cathedral's spires appear among the trains crossing the Hohenzollernbrücke is perhaps the sharpest memory of Cologne.